Cruising through the locks on the Lot river

ecluse, lock

As far as summer jobs go, growing up in France, being a lock keeper was my favourite. I was an ‘éclusier’ or lock keeper for several summers in Champagne, France, assisting barges through the middle of Champagne’s vineyards in Tours sur Marne and Mareuil sur Ay. A lock keeper’s job was to ensure smooth travelling of barges and the upkeep of its surroundings. Some ecluse are beautifully kept and sometimes the eclusier would sell fresh vegetables or fruits to barge owners or tourists going through the locks. The very large commercial locks are all automated now, however the smaller tourist locks on small canals or rivers, remain manual for the fun and experience of those travelling by peniche (houseboat).

When we cruised on the Lot river, they were all manual locks as there was no commercial traffic. Whether going downstream (‘avalant’ is the French technical term) or upstream (‘montant’) the process is the same, you need to close the lock and level the lock with your boat by either emptying the lock or filling it up. You use the sluice gates to do that which are handled by cranks usually located on the gates. Once done, you open the gate and move your boat inside, then close the lock, empty the lock or fill it up depending if you are going downstream or upstream respectively. Usually you release the sluice gates slowly during that process until the lock is half full or half empty to avoid having the boat rocking all over the chamber. It is highly recommended to have somebody inside the boat using a rope to control it inside the lock. Once the lock is levelled, it is time to open the gate and be on your way for more fun and more locks…

Lock, ecluse

Lock, ecluse

Opening the lock gates

Crank

Preparing the Locks

Cockpit

Ecluses, lock

Towpath

house on the Lot river

house on the Lot river

Cruising on the Lot river

house on the Lot river

Village by the river

Village by the Lot river

Jour de marché in Cahors

Valentre Bridge

Cahors is a medieval town situated on the banks of the Lot river and is the capital of the Lot département with about 20,000 inhabitants. Cahors was part of the Pilgrimage of St Jacques-de-Compostelle.

We cruised with our péniche (houseboat) on the Lot river and moored it in the centre of town, passing under the fortified Valentré bridge, a UNESCO World Heritage site, built-in the 14th century and visited the cathedral of Saint-Etienne also listed as a UNESCO World heritage site.

At the gates of the beautiful Saint-Etienne cathedral also a UNESCO World heritage site, twice weekly, you can find on Wednesdays and Saturdays the beautiful local market selling incredible local produce such as Rocamadour cheeses, foie gras, duck magrets and of course Cahors wine. Cahors is well-known for its ‘black’ wine which is a blend of 70% Malbec and 30% Merlot. A powerful red, it marries perfectly with the rich local South West food.

Cahors

Mediaval Cahors

Cahors

Church Cahors

Cahors market

Cahors, church, eglise

cahors marche, market

Church Cahors, église

Cahors

Cahors

Valentre Bridge

One of the most beautiful village in France – Saint Cirq Lapopie

Saint Cirq Lapopie

France is made of more than 32,000 villages, some are more beautiful than others. The prettiest villages are a part of an association called: “the most beautiful villages in France”. Saint Cirq Lapopie is one of them. It was also voted the favourite French village back in 2012! We visited Saint Cirq Lapopie while traveling on a péniche (houseboat) in the South West of France in the Lot département in the Midi Pyrenees region. Saint Cirq Lapopie is about 30km east of Cahors in the Quercy national park.

Nested atop a cliff, perched 100m above the Lot river, the medieval village architecture is outstanding. The castle ruins built as a fortress dates back from the 12th century onwards and the romanesque church from the 15th century. The houses date back from the 14th century and some were built with part of the castles as the 100 hundred years’ war was raging. Saint Cirq Lapopie has been shared between different feudal families; Lapopie, de Gourdon and de Cardaillac. The village is known for its rich artisans heritage; tanners, wood-turners and cauldron makers.

Many French artists and writers such as Andre Breton and Man Ray took residence in Saint Cirq Lapopie and has many art galleries worth a visit.

Saint Cirq Lapopie

House Saint Cirq Lapopie

Church Saint Cirq Lapopie

Saint Cirq Lapopie

Saint Cirq Lapopie

ecluse, lock

Saint Cirq Lapopie

View from Saint Cirq Lapopie

View from Saint Cirq Lapopie

View from Saint Cirq Lapopie

Saint Cirq Lapopie

Saint Cirq Lapopie

View from Saint Cirq Lapopie

Rusty door Saint Cirq Lapopie

Church Saint Cirq Lapopie

Church Saint Cirq Lapopie

Church Saint Cirq Lapopie

Room with a View – Péniche on Lot River in the South West of France

View from Saint Cirq Lapopie

The Lot valley is a beautiful part of France South West in the Midi-Pyrennées region, the Lot takes its name from the snaking river crossing the département (region). The Lot river is bordered by very steep cliffs, plateaux, vineyards, medieval villages, castles and churches. The Lot region is famous for its gastronomy: the foie gras, duck magrets, Cahors wine, cheeses which can be bought in the village markets.

Cruising the canals and rivers of France on a péniche (houseboat) is a wonderful way of discovering France’s rich and diverse countryside. Every year, growing up, my family would hire a péniche in Spring and we would stroll through a canal or a river for a week in different regions of France. France has an amazing network of canals and rivers that are now being almost exclusively geared towards tourism.

As a child, I remember being overwhelmed by the size of the barges compared to our little péniche, we would cross ways or sharing a lock with commercial barges rushing to get their dry goods delivered and speeding through the locks while we were leisurely cruising. I used to love going through the locks opening and closing the gates, filling or emptying the lock to go up or down depending if you were going downstream or upstream (‘avalant’ or ‘montant’ are the French technical terms).

We started off in Luzech to pick up our Péniche and traveled to Larganol, cruising through Cahors and Saint Cirq Lapopie. Life on the péniche is very simple, you basically eat, sleep and cruise on the Péniche. We loaded all our gear on board: food, barbecue as well as our bikes onto the Péniche, so we could go shopping in the nearby village or sometimes ride along the canal towpath. Near the Ganil ecluse (lock) the canal towpath (Chemin de Halage) was carved out of the cliff back in 1845 to let horses go and pull barges. One section of the limestone cliff has been sculpted by Daniel Monnier. You can also swim in the river, near Saint Cirq Lapopie on hot days.

While cruising, you alternate going through towns, small villages, remote areas and going through locks after locks, 31 in total. We moored somewhere different every night on the bank of the canal and cooked the food we bought that morning at the markets. Make sure to check the jour de marché for each town or village, in Cahors the marché is on on Wednesday and Saturdays.

Near Cahors, you can stop by and moor your peniche at the vineyard for wine degustation and buy some ‘Cahors’ wine which marries perfectly with the duck confit that is available everywhere in the region also known as the ‘duck country’.

Peniche docked

Cruising on the Lot river

Cruising in the South West

Cruising on the Lot river

Peniche docked on the river bank

Cruising in the South West

Church perched on a cliff

ecluse, lock

ecluse, lock

ecluse, lock

Carved out Towpath

towpath, chemin de halage

towpath, chemin de halage

Cruising along the cliff

Cruising on the Lot river

Cliff by the river

South West cruising

Swimming in the river

City Palace Udaipur

City Palace Udaipur lake view

City Palace, Udaipur, is a palace complex in Udaipur, in the Indian state Rajasthan, built over a period of nearly 400 years by several kings of the dynasty. It is located on the east bank of the Lake Pichola and has several palaces built within its complex. Udaipur was the historic capital of the former kingdom of Mewar.

The City Palace in Udaipur was built in a flamboyant style and is considered the largest of its type in Rajasthan, a fusion of the Rajasthani and Mughal architectural styles, and was built on a hill top that gives a panoramic view of the city and its surrounding, including several historic monuments such as the Lake Palace in Lake Pichola, the Jag Mandir on another island in the lake, the Jagdish Temple close to the palace, the Monsoon Palace on top of an overlooking hillock nearby and the Neemach Mata temple. These structures are linked to the filming of the James Bond movie Octopussy, which features the Lake Palace and the Monsoon Palace.

The City Palace is opened from 9AM to 5PM daily and the entry fee is Rs 115 for foreigners.

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udaipur-city-palace-doorway

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City Palace architecture

City  Palace Udaipur details

City Palace Udaipur birdcages

< City Palace Udaipur view

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Inside the City Palace Udaipur

City Palace poolside

City Palace Udaipur poolside tree

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City Palace decorations

City Palace Flower Decorations

City Palace Udaipur artisan work

City Palace fresco 1

City Palace Fresco 2

City Palace Fresco 3

City Palace Udaipur sunset

Room With A View at the Lake Palace Udaipur

lake-palace-lotus-pond

Legend has it that the young prince Maharana Jagat Singh II indulged in moonlight picnics with the ladies of the Zenana on the lake island palace of Jag Mandir until his father found out. With that option closed to him, he built his own palace on a different island in Lake Pichola. Begun in 1743 and inaugurated in 1746, the new palace was named Jag Niwas. What may have begun as a prince’s rebellious gesture was turned into one of the most romantic hotels in the world by Maharana Bhagwat Singhji in 1963. The palace’s decadent reputation was cemented when the James Bond film Octopussy was filmed on the premises.

Our stay at the Lake Palace was incredible. From the time we arrived by car, after a 5 hour drive from Jaipur we were treated with the most wonderful hospitality by the staff of the Lake Palace. We waited under beautiful archways for the boatman who would take us across the lake where we were greeted with a shower of rose petals as we entered the lobby of the hotel. After check-in, we were then accompanied to our room walking by the lotus pond made famous by the James Bond film, Octopussy. It truly is even more spectacular in real life.

There are 4 restaurants at the Lake Palace. We took a buffet breakfast in Jharokha with views of the lake and City Palace and tried Bhairo situated on the rooftop of the Lake Palace we watched the sunset while enjoying the beautiful contemporary cuisine. The Amrit Sagar restaurant is a more casual dining experience which offers high tea and Neel Kamal offered elegant traditional indian cuisine from the region.

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lake palace udaipur lotus pond

lake palace udaipur lotus pond

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Lake Palace water ponds

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lake-palace-udaipur-lobby

lake-palace-udaipur-bedroom

lake-palace-udaipur-architecture

lake-palace-udaipur-pool

lake-palace-udaipur-pool-mosaic

lake-palace-restaurant

Lake Palace Udaipur archway

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view-from-lake-palace

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Amer Fort

Amber Fort

The Amer Fort (also known as The Amber Fort) is located in Amer, 11 kilometres (6.8 mi) from Jaipur, in Rajasthan India and is one of the most famous forts of Rajasthan and a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Amer Fort was built by Raja Man Singh I in the 16th century and is known for its artistic style of Hindu elements combined with Muslim architecture. With its large ramparts, series of gates and cobbled paths, the fort overlooks the Maota Lake, at its forefront.

The opulent palace complex built with red sandstone and marble, consists of the Diwan-e-Aam or the “Hall of Public Audience”, the Diwan-e-Khas or the “Hall of Private Audience”, the Sheesh Mahal (mirror palace) and the Sukh Niwas where a cool climate is artificially created by winds that blow over the water cascade within the palace.

We took a private car from Jaipur to the Amer Fort for flexibility. Opened daily from 9:30AM to 4:30AM (except on Holi), the entry fee is Rs 50 for foreigners and Rs 10 for children and Indian citizens. There is an additional fee of Rs 70 for a still camera or Rs 150 for a video camera for foreigners.

amber fort from a distance

amber fort and lake

The Amer Fort elephant ride is quite a sight to see, especially with the Amer Fort in the background. Visitors should try to arrive early (before 9AM) if they are interested in a ride as most of the 80 elephants will have finished their quote of rides by 11AM. The Jaipur government routinely perform health checks and each elephant is limited to carrying two passengers plus the driver, only making 5 trips each day. The Amer Fort elephant ride costs Rs 1,000 for two people and it takes approximately 20-30 minutes (depending on elephant traffic!) for the elephant to slowly trudge up the hillside to the main courtyard.

amer fort elephant station

elephant amber fort

elephant and rider amber fort

amer fort elephant and rider

amer fort elephants

amber fort elephant trail

The Maota Lake and garden, which sits in front of The Amer Fort.

amber fort and maota lake

amber fort and maota lake

amber fort and garden

amber fort and surrounds

Inside the Amer Fort there are beautifully manicured gardens.

inside the amber fort

amer fort garden

amber fort arrival

Getting dropped off in the courtyard before entering The Amer Fort on foot.

amer fort courtyard

inside the amer fort

The beautiful mirrored walls and ceilings of the Sheesh Mahal ‘Mirrored Palace’ inside The Amer Fort.

amer fort mirror palace

amer fort mirror palace 2

amer fort mirror palace close up

amer fort mirrored ceiling

Humayun’s Tomb

chabagh garden and humayun's tomb

Humayun’s tomb is the tomb of the Mughal Emperor Humayun in Delhi, India. The tomb was commissioned by Humayun’s first wife Bega Begum was so grieved over her husband’s death that she dedicated her life thenceforth to a sole purpose: the construction of the most magnificent mausoleum in the Empire, at a site near the Yamuna River in Delhi for the memorial of the late Emperor. The tomb was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993 and since then has undergone extensive restoration work.

Humayun’s tomb was placed in the centre of a 30-acre (120,000 m2) Char Bagh Garden (Four Gardens), a Persian-style garden with a quadrilateral layout. The highly geometrical and enclosed Paradise garden is divided into four squares by paved walkways and two bisecting central water channels, reflecting the four rivers that flow in jannat, the Islamic concept of paradise. Each of the four square is further divided into smaller squares with pathways, creating into 36 squares in all, a design typical of later Mughal gardens.

Huayun’s tomb is open daily from sunrise to sunset and the entry fee is Rs 250 for foreigners ad Rs 10 for Indian citizens.

chabagh garden close up

chabagh garden 01

charbagh garden grounds

chabagh garden path

chabargh garden with tree

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The exterior arch of Humayun’s Tomb…

chabagh garden interior

The symbolically cut out mihrab facing west or Mecca, over the marble lattice screen.

Humayun's Tomb lattice window

view from charbagh garden

chabagh garden grounds

Jama Masjid Old Delhi

jama masjid chandelier 2

This great mosque of Old Delhi is the largest in India, with a courtyard capable of holding 25,000 devotees. It was begun in 1644 and ended up being the final architectural extravagance of Shah Jahan, the Mughal emperor who built the Taj Mahal and the Red Fort. It was completed in 1656. The highly decorative mosque has three great gates, four towers and two 40 m-high minarets constructed of strips of red sandstone and white marble. You can enter, after hiring robes at the northern gate to ensure you are appropriately clothed while visiting the mosque.

It lies at the beginning of the Chawri Bazar Road, a very busy central street of Old Delhi and is a good starting point to explore the city further.

Jama Masjid is open daily from 7am to midday and 1:30PM to 6:30PM (tourists are not allowed in during prayer). Entry is free however there is a fee of Rs 200 to take photos.

jama masjid exterior

jama masjid exterior

jama masjid cityscape

jama masjid old delhi brass details

jama masjid chandelier

New Delhi

new delhi view

New Delhi is the capital of India and seat of the executive, legislative, and judiciary branches of the Government of India. It is also the centre of the Government of the National Capital Territory of Delhi. With a population of 17.8 million in 2014, Delhi metropolitan region is the world’s second most populous city and the largest city in India and also one of the largest in the world in terms of area. After Mumbai it is also the wealthiest city in India.

The population of Delhi is mainly consists of Hindus, Muslims, Sikhs and Christians and so on. Hinduism is the main religion in Delhi with 81% Hindu followers. All the major Hindu festivals are celebrated by Hindu community in New Delhi. Muslims with 11.7% population forms the second largest community after Hindus in New Delhi. Majority of the Muslim population live in the Old Delhi areas like Chandni Chowk. Sikhism is another major religion in Delhi forming large community in capital of India.

The photos below were taken from the largest Muslim mosque in India – Jama Masjid, in Old Delhi. We took a bike ride through the nearby streets of Chandni Chowk one of the oldest markets in Old Delhi.

new delhi streetscape

new delhi buildings

new delhi landscape 2

touk touk in new delhi

street vendor in new delhi

street vendor tomatoes in new delhi

street vendor snacks in new delhi

Hawa Mahal – Jaipur

Hawa Mahal or the “Palace of Winds” or “Palace of the Breeze”, is a palace in Jaipur, so named because it was essentially a high screen wall built so the women of the royal household could observe street festivities while unseen from the outside. Constructed of red and pink sandstone, the palace sits on the edge of the City Palace.

The structure was built in 1799 by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh in the form of the crown of Krishna, the Hindu god. Its unique five-storey exterior is akin to the honeycomb of a beehive with its 953 small windows decorated with intricate latticework. The original intention of the lattice was to allow royal ladies to observe everyday life in the street below without being seen, since they had to obey strict “purdah” (face cover). The lattice also allows cool air through the intricate pattern, cooling the palace during the high temperatures in summers.

The palace is open daily from 9AM to 4:30PM and the entry fee is Rs 30 for foreigners (an extra Rs30 for a still camera) and Rs 10 for Indian citizens.

Hawa Mahal Palace Jaipur

Hawa Mahal Palace Jaipur

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View from the Hawa Mahal Palace Jaipur

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Street view from the Hawa Mahal Palace Jaipur

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Room With A View at the Rambagh Palace Jaipur

Rambagh Palace Jaipur

The Rambagh Palace in Jaipur, Rajasthan is the former residence of the Maharaja of Jaipur and now a luxury Taj Palace Hotel, located 5 miles (8.0 km) outside of the walls of the city of Jaipur on Bhawani Singh Road. Built in 1835 on a modest scale for the queen’s favourite handmaiden Kesar Badaran, and later refurbished as a royal guesthouse and hunting lodge, the mansion was renamed Rambagh, after the then reigning Maharaja Sawai Ram Singh II. Rambagh remained the home of Jaipur’s Royalty until 1957, when it was first converted into an upscale hotel and is now managed by the Taj Resorts and Palaces group. For more information visit the hotel’s website.

We had an incredible time at the Rambagh Palace. The staff were very accommodating and great with our kids. The food was wonderful and we were spoilt for choice – in the morning we took a buffet breakfast in the Rajput Room a more casual all day dining experience, in the evenings we either enjoyed drinks at The Polo Bar or on The Verandah while we watched the evenings dance and music performances or had our palms read and we even tried Steam – a restored steam engine complete with a Victorian style station on site – you can either have a drink on the platform or have dinner inside the train! The kids can also have a play in the actual driver’s compartment.

The kids also loved chasing (or being chased) by the beautiful peacocks on the manicured lawns of the Rambagh Palace as well as swimming in both the indoor and outdoor pools. Each day, there was a new beautiful petal flower arrangements by the pools and around the paths leading towards the spa.

Rambagh Palace Jaipur

rambagh palace garden

rambagh palace garden

rambagh palace internal courtyard

rambagh palace outdoor pool

rambagh palace indoor pool

rambagh palace poolside flowers

rambagh palace entrance

rambagh palace cars

rambagh palace peacock

rambagh palace peacock in garden

rambagh palace the verandah

evening lights at the ragbagh palace jaipur

City Palace Jaipur

city palace jaipur

City Palace, is a palace complex that lies in the heart of Jaipur city and incorporates an impressive and vast array of courtyards, gardens and buildings that blend both Rajasthani and Mughal architecture. The palace was built between 1729 and 1732, initially by Sawai Jai Singh II, the ruler of Amber. A highlight of the City Palace is the Peacock Gate which is exquisite and contains an alluring display of detailed workmanship featuring bright peacocks.

The City Palace and the Museum are open to visitors daily between 9.:30 AM to 5PM (Closed on Diwali / Holi and a select few holidays) and an entry fee of 300 rupees for foreigners (includes camera fee and entry to Jaigarh Fort) and 75 rupees for Indians, plus 75 rupees for a still camera.

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city palace with truck

city palace windows

city palace interior

city palace chandelier

peacock doors at city palace jaipur

close up of peacock doors in city palace jaipur

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peacock at city palace jaipur

peacock gate at city palace jaipur

Janta Mantar Observatory – Jaipur

Janta Mantar Observatory Jaipur

Jantar Mantar is a collection of architectural astronomical instruments, built by King Jai Singh II between 1727 and 1734, literally means “calculation instrument”. The Jaipur observatory has been inscribed on the World Heritage List as “an expression of the astronomical skills and cosmological concepts of the court of a scholarly prince at the end of the Mughal period”. The observatory consists of fourteen major geometric devices for measuring time, predicting eclipses and tracking stars’ location as the earth orbits around the sun. It is located next to the City Palace in Jaipur and is opened daily from 9AM to 4:30PM. The entry fee is 100 rupees for foreigners and 20 rupees for Indians.

jantar mantar observatory

jantar mantar observatory instrument

jantar mantar observatory

jantar mantar observatory

jantar mantar observatory

Room with a View at The Oberoi Amar Villas Agra

Taj Mahal View at Dusk

A room with a majestic view on the Taj Mahal is what makes the Oberoi Amar Villas very special, it is one of the closest hotels and the views are its expansive grounds are ideal for pre-dinner walks and shows. The hotel is quite new and inspired by Moorish and Mughal architecture with a stunning entrance with arches, sandstones columns and 64 fountains. The swimming pool is huge and simply stunning, it was a perfect resting place after a long day of sightseeing at the Taj Mahal.

Oberoi Amar Villas Entrance

Oberoi Amar Villas Pool Side

Oberoi Amar Villas Pool Side

Oberoi Amar Villas Pool Side

Oberoi Amar Villas Pool Side

Oberoi Amar Villas Pool Side

Oberoi Amar Villas Pool Side

Oberoi Amar Villas Pool Side

Oberoi Amar Villas Pool Side

oberoi amar villas terrace 2

oberoi amar villas pool

oberoi amar villas terrace

Taj Mahal – Agra

Taj Mahal, Agra

The Taj Mahal is located in Agra in India. Much has been written about this white marble mausoleum that was erected by a Mughal emperor in memory to his wife, a Persian princess. It took over 20 years to build this stunning piece of architecture that is a Unesco World Heritage site. It is highly recommended to visit early in the early morning to avoid the crowds and the heat. A walk around in the gardens provides different viewing angles. The Taj Mahal should be on your must see list if you visit India for the first time, it is only a couple of hours from New Delhi by train.

Taj Mahal, Agra

Taj Mahal, Agra

Taj Mahal, Agra

Taj Mahal, Agra

Taj Mahal, Agra

Taj Mahal, Agra

Taj Mahal, Agra

Taj Mahal, Agra

Taj Mahal, Agra

Taj Mahal and gardens

Taj Mahal - The Great Gate

Taj Mahal - The Great Gate close up

Argan Oil

Argan Oil, goat

Ever wondered where argan oil comes from? Along the route from Marrakech to Essaouira we came across some shepherds sitting along the road side, while their goats ate argan nuts directly from the Argan tree. They had constructed some small platforms for the goats to reach the tallest branches, where they proceeded to eat the outside shell, spitting the remainder on the ground. It was a pretty incredible sight to see.

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Further down the road, about 20 minutes from Essaouira we visited a women’s co-operative that runs one of the largest Argan Oil co-ops in the region. Once the argan nuts are collected, the next stage involves cracking the argan nut to obtain the argan kernels.

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Attempts to mechanise this process have been unsuccessful and it is still carried out by hand, making it a time-consuming and labour-intensive process. Berber women smash the argan nuts with stones to extract the kernels.

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Kernels used to make argan oil for food use, are then gently roasted, while unroasted argan kernels are ground down and used in soap and oil for the skin, hair and other cosmetic purposes.

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The brown-colored mash expels pure, unfiltered argan oil. After this, unfiltered argan oil is decanted into vessels.

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